Bucha is my favorite spot in Ukraine. By Steve Richards I just finished lunch at the bustling Viktoria Park Hotel here in Bucha, and as I sat there, it struck me: what if I had been here during the occupation? An American documentarian in occupied Ukraine? My days would have been numbered. I’d either be the latest Russian prisoner on trumped-up espionage charges, or even shot dead on the streets, like so many Bucha residents. Artillery shells filled the skies, Javelins destroyed Russian tanks, and people sheltered in their basements. No one roamed the streets, not even the Russian soldiers, who feared being picked off by Bucha’s defiant citizens. Now, more than two and a half years later, it couldn't be nicer. The weather is a comfortable 60 degrees, partly cloudy—just like Boston. The town, home to just over 31,000 people before the war is perhaps even larger now given the traffic. It’s filled with forests, nice homes, and apartments. Bucha has reclaimed its identity as a trendy Kyiv suburb, complete with a commuter rail station. Kyiv is just 14 miles away, about a 45-minute drive. The noisiest things around this weekend here were the two wedding receptions at the hotel over the weekend. The DJ’s played western hits. It all feels so normal now. The McDonald's reopened quickly, though I don’t remember seeing a Domino's before. New shops are flourishing, windows throughout the town replaced as if nothing ever happened. The blown-out houses on Vokzalna Street, where the Russian advance was halted, have been completely rebuilt, thanks to international contributors like Miami based Global Empowerment Mission and Howard Buffett, Warren Buffett’s son. After five days in Kharkiv last week I’ve been here all weekend, capturing footage of a local Evangelical church in Irpin, the next town over. Tomorrow, I’m interviewing its pastor before heading to Dnipro. To be honest, it feels like a bit of a holiday. No air raid sirens here. They’re rare in Bucha now, unlike in Kyiv, and even more so in Kharkiv. There are no major targets for the Russians here, though I imagine they have plans to strike the power infrastructure as the winter deepens. Part of the reason I returned this past weekend was an invitation from old friends from April 2022 to a borscht dinner. They’ve been so kind, though I’m still not used to the endless vodka shots before, during, and after meals. Lesson learned: wine and vodka don’t mix well over dinner. Julia in front of Jul's Coffee and Ice Cream Jul’s Coffee and Cocktails
Bucha’s entrepreneurial spirit impresses me, grounded in a faith—faith not just in God, though that’s part of it, but faith in Ukraine’s ultimate victory. You don’t invest like this if you think the Russians are coming back. It’s possible, of course, but few here seem to think it likely. Take Julia, the owner of Jul’s Coffee and Peace. Anyone who’s seen Back to Bucha – Finding the Spirit in Ukraine knows Julia and her story of returning to Bucha in the summer of 2022 to rebuild. When I visited in January 2023, her coffee shop had been fully restored after being destroyed. And by the holiday season in January 2024, I was back again and screening Back to Bucha at her new restaurant, Burger Bunker. Now, I’ve returned just in time for the opening of her latest venture: Jul’s Coffee and Cocktails, a beautiful little cocktail house that also serves duck breast, risotto and mushrooms, and tiramisu. She’s also opened Jul’s Coffee and Ice Cream in a nearby park, housed in a little artisan metal building that looks like Tinkerbell’s house—a little slice of Disney World right here in Bucha. Other creations are on the horizon, and all are in Bucha. Her way of giving back a bit of joy to her Bucha as she calls it. Profit is not high on the list of objectives. Jobs and economic activity a tremendous result. It’s all truly remarkable from a woman who had no experience in any of these trades. She has received no insurance nor government money. Just a bit of cooperation from the mayor’s office. The biggest problem? As the mother of five she is just dead tired. In the short video attached, you can see the petite diamond cross around her neck, a symbol of her Christian faith. This lady has faith. In God, herself, her family, Bucha and Ukraine. Call it faith-based Capitalism. It is common throughout Ukraine. And for those that say Ukraine is destroyed, and the war unwinnable, I say come to Bucha.
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